April 19 2014

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Birds Of A Feather Flock—And Sing, And Dance—Together For Jean Paul Gautier































In keeping with a ballet theme (one with the obligatory Black Swan inflection), Jean Paul Gaultier mandated a beauty look at his Couture show fit for stars of the stage—and for good reason. Ultra-French chanteuses Zizi Jeanmaire and Mylène Farmer were among the many models and muses Gaultier called up for runway duty this morning. Translated in makeup terms, this meant a seriously artful eye and classic crimson lip, which were executed with precision by famed face painter Stephane Marais. “The real star was the eyeliner, but since in my opinion none of the companies who used to do good ones still do, we mixed it up ourselves backstage using theater makeup, which really holds,” Marais said of the flicked-out strokes he drew along both top and bottom lash lines. To get the “true-true” red he wanted on mouths, Marais raided his personal stash of lipstick bullets from his own discontinued signature line.

An iconic songbird, Farmer closed the show wearing a huge ostrich feather number, which echoed the incredible feather hair accessories coif-master Odile Gilbert concocted for the occasion—the second time Gilbert has turned to exotic plumes in Paris this week. Anyone wondering where the feather theme came from got their answer at the post-show party launch of Gaultier’s new men’s fragrance, Kokorico (a name borrowed from what the French coq crows). Billed as “chic, torrid, and full of panache,” Kokorico is a heady mix of cedar, patchouli, vetiver, fig, and the paradoxical (read: bitter) side of the cocoa bean, signed by perfumers Olivier Cresp and Annick Menardo. Buff Basque hunk Jon Kortajarena stars in the fragrance’s campaign—himself clad in a black feather ensemble, in which he dances up a storm for the Kokorico TV commercial set to air later this fall. “I did nothing but dance for one and a half days before [the shoot],” the male model laughed of the prep work that went into his latest role. “It was hard but really fun.”


Photo: Luca Cannonieri /