Flower Tag By Kenzo Gets Up
Before sending bloggers and twitterers into a frenzy earlier this summer with the announcement that Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim had been named new creative directors for the fashion house, Kenzo had a relatively low profile—particularly its beauty business. But that didn’t stop Flower by Kenzo, the brand’s debut fragrance, launched in 2000, from becoming the number one best seller in France. Credit for that goes to Patrick Guedj, creative director at Kenzo Parfums, who chose to create the powdery wild hawthorn, rose, and violet eau in direct contrast to the label’s clothes. “The fashion house was very patterned and full of color, and we made the choice to make the fragrance simple and pure,” Guedj says. “Perfume has to last a long time. It can’t change every season [like a collection].”
Change, of course, can be a good thing. As the scent garnered a global fan base over the course of the last decade—never once challenging its original juice with a range of spinoffs, as most designer brands do—Guedj made an observation: “We suspected that the people who were buying Flower by Kenzo were getting older with it,” Guedj said. That prompted the photographer, writer, and filmmaker—who is also in charge of the fragrance division’s visuals—to create the more youthful Flower Tag. “There’s a free energy in it,” he says of the fruity floral that combines rhubarb and blackcurrant with peony, lily of the valley, tea, and musks in an effort to embody the artistic expression of graffiti—”tagging” or “getting up,” as it’s referred to by those in the know (I’m from Philadelphia, OK?). It’s the first of many developments to come from the range, which is hoping to build a better stateside presence over the next few years. “We’re going to start advertising,” Guedj reveals. If his print campaigns are anywhere near as inventive as his viral videos, it’ll be just another reason to become a Kenzo acolyte now before you run the risk of bandwagoneering.