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August 22 2014

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A Noncommittal Undercut Premieres Backstage At Paul Smith

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Since Alice Dellal and her cohorts revived the side shave a couple of years ago, the popular punk practice of taking razor to scalp has been reinstated as a favorite Brit girl pastime. And so it went at Paul Smith, where hairstylist Peter Gray was prepping locks with Morrocanoil Styling Cream and coiffing “cool, English rock chicks who shaved their heads for the summer.” It wasn’t the side shave but the undercut that Gray was after, though. Rather than actually shearing models backstage, he divided hair into a top and bottom section, weaving a coiled braid and pinning it above the nape of the neck, letting slightly textured “accidental” strands hang over from the top for an “airy” effect. To get a shiny finish, Gray coated his hands in Morroconoil’s Oil Treatment Light and pulled sections through his fingertips for a bit of soft separation.

Staying in line with the designer’s “young, cool” directive, makeup artist Petros Petrohilos layered on a thin coat of MAC Face + Body Foundation for dewy coverage that looked as though the girls had been “out all night.” To further that party-till-dawn feel, Petrohilos rimmed the upper and lower lash lines with MAC Eyeliner in Ebony and then promptly removed it, leaving a slight trace of pigment that was given a lived-in look courtesy of a swipe of its glossy, Mixing Medium Shine across lids. As a final touch, Petrohilos dotted MAC’s new Tender Tones—a highly versatile balm-cum-stain that’ll be out in February—in Hot & Saucy, a sheer red, onto lips and directly underneath cheekbones for a faint rosy flush.

Photo: GoRunway.com

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