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September 2 2014

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A Twofer, Backstage At Narciso Rodriguez

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Playing with tone rather than a range of different face colors has become one of the prevailing beauty trends to come out of the New York shows. The look backstage at Narciso Rodriguez provided yet another example of the technique’s versatility. “Intensely monochromatic” is how Shiseido artistic director Dick Page described the makeup, for which he played around with a single product: a mauve-y, prototype cream base. Page applied the pigment onto lids as well as underneath the lower lash line before blending it with Shiseido Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Dragon, a soft red that was reduced to a warm nude when pressed onto pouts. As is customary at a Narciso show, brows were built up using Shiseido’s Shimmering Cream Eye Shadow, which Page insisted on applying himself. “No one else can be trusted!” he joked.

The makeup and Deborah Lippmann’s gray Waking Up in Vegas lacquer were purposely subdued to account for the large amount of color in the collection—and in the hair (kudos to Rodriguez for getting two of NYFW’s big beauty movements into one show). “We were looking at pictures of girls with streaks and I said, enough of that,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman explained of the look, which included a conical twist with bright, matted-down sides coated with spray-on hair color and copious amounts of Wella Super Set finishing spray (“you get what you’d get with a gel in half the time,” Souleiman said of the product’s quick-dry, defining abilities). Going for something “modern and striking,” the coiffing star chose five different accent shades, including white, bright orange, neon green, turquoise, and yellow. If anything can shake up the cult of dip-dyeing, this just might be it.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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