August 23 2014

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“Alien Beautiful,” Backstage at Rochas


“Marco [Zanini] likes a sculpted beauty,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni said backstage at the designer’s Spring Rochas collection. “A simple, yet made-up” look that she and her coiffing counterpart, Eugene Souleiman, delivered in spades. Working off one of this season’s big trends—”perfection,” fifties-style—Pieroni added a sci-fi twist, channeling Tim Burton’s 1996 film Mars Attacks. “It’s alien beautiful,” she said of the clean, powdered skin that shined “in all the right places,” thanks to Clé de Peau’s forthcoming Luminizing Face Enhancer in 12 Gold, a prismatic highlighting palette, which Pieroni swiped across cheekbones and down the bridge of the nose. A “fifties brow”—that classic straight, full shape—was filled in and given a pointed arch with MAC Eye Shadow in Omega, Copperplate and Typographic, while a smudged lid, which received a diffused line of chestnut pigment from Clé de Peau’s new-for-spring Eye Color Quad in 208, a mix of beiges and browns, created depth. To tone down mouths ever-so-slightly, Pieroni patted on its as-yet-unreleased Enriched Lip Luminizer in 220 Honey Nuts for a golden nude finish.

“They’re so perfect, they’re almost from outer space,” Souleiman elaborated of Zanini’s directive, which the coiffing star translated into gravity-defying French twists. “We simply reduced the weight of the hair by creating a ponytail that’s been teased to death,” Souleiman said of the process, which required little more than a few mists of hair spray. “Then, you just wrap all of that frizz into a hairdo. It’s a quick fix, but it actually works,” he said—particularly well with the chiffon scarves that were assigned to a few of the girls at random. “They sort of feel like they’re levitating,” Souleiman offered of the diaphanous fabrics billowing quality. “But it’s not weird.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

Backstage Reviews