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April 20 2014

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Cat-Eyes And “Helmet-Like” Hair, Backstage At Jil Sander

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Redken creative consultant Guido Palau notably went with sixties-era wig cap-inspired updos last season at Jil Sander, and he culled from a similar era for Spring. “It’s inspired by the 1950′s but then becomes midcentury modern, which makes it such a sculptured look,” he pointed out of the “helmet-like,” sleek, curled-under faux bobs designer Raf Simons requested backstage, adding that while the retro reference was definitely there, the style was still meant to be somewhat age-defying. “It could be from the future but it also nods to the past,” Palau said, coating hair with Redken Rootful 06 Root Lifting Spray to give it some “guts” before applying heat and back-combing sections for additional volume. “In the true DNA of the brand, this is a rich woman’s hairdo that looks almost so perfect, it has no period,” he continued, brushing strands backward before gathering lengths into a low ponytail and rolling it under itself, pinning as he went. A precise layering effort of Redken Forceful 23 Hairspray imparted that high-gloss finish.

Makeup artist Peter Philips was channeling the fifties as well, albeit a certain cross section of women from the time: the spa’ing set. Evoking the kind of woman who makes time for pampering—and her equally immaculate aesthetician—Philips broke out his brand-new Chanel Perfection Lumiere foundation for a completely clean face, dotting the complexion perfector onto lips as well so pouts and skin almost blended together. Then, in line with a growing trend among the makeup artistry establishment, Philips filled in brows with a selection of Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencils and scrawled a thin black line across the upper lash line with its Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner, incorporating a flick at the end. A few swipes of Chanel Inimitable Mascara on lashes added to the elegance.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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