Cowboy Up And Take A Powder, Backstage At Thakoon
When we arrived backstage at the Plaza Hotel for Thakoon’s Spring presentation, we caught Odile Gilbert blue-handed. The hairstylist was elbow deep in emulsified, colored clay powder. “You can eat it,” Gilbert said of the substance she brought with her from Paris, where the French frequently mix it with water to fight indigestion. But yesterday, it was being used as a reference to India’s Holi festival, when revelers throw pink powder in the air and all over one another to celebrate the triumph of good over evil. “Thakoon really wanted a touch of color in the hair, so we thought today was a very good day to have a Holi day,” Gilbert joked, applying the watered-down mixture in shades of pink as well as blue, green, terra-cotta, and lilac to two different styles, a double French braid and a faux bob. (Slightly apprehensive models were promised a good washing and reparative treatment following the presentation with Kérastase’s Nutritive Bain Satin line).
The Holi festival wasn’t the only idea on Thakoon’s mood board. “I got the cowboys,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said of the designer’s other cultural reference point. To get the sunworn look of Wild West frontiersmen, Kendal set to work sketching strong brows and tinting lids using a collection of beige and brown NARS Eyeshadows in Bengali, Bali, and Blondie. But Marlboro man, this was not. “The girls still are supposed to look really pretty,” Kendal said. And they did thanks to a warm flush that the face painter brushed onto cheekbones using NARS Blush in Zen, a warm toasted almond, and its new spring shade, Gaiety, a rosy pink.