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“Ghostly But Still Glamorous,” Backstage at Rick Owens


Seeing as how that striking image of a matte red lip, bleached brows, and texturized sleek hair from Rick Owens’ Fall show is still burned into our brain six months later, the backstage scene for Spring drummed up more than a little bit of déjà vu. “He really likes a pale woman,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni surmised of Owens’ partiality for blocked-out arches and extra-perfected, ethereal skin. “It gets rid of the features so the girls look more sculptural,” she continued of the designer’s preferred face-painting technique, pointing out that this season’s woman was slightly less “spooky” then she’s been in the past. “It’s really Art Deco goddess—almost like the woman on the front of a Rolls-Royce,” Pieroni explained, coating skin in MAC Pro Face & Body Foundation in White—a unique complexion enhancer that blends to a transparent milky finish, imparting an almost supernatural pallor. After patting a white matte powder around the outer corners of the eyes and on top of cheekbones where a highlighter normally would be to further the transparent quality of the skin, Pieroni devoted her attention to building a truly retina-burning red lip. “I’d call it a fiery orange,” she said, layering MAC Lip Mix in Red, Orange, and White onto mouths, a mixture that dried down to a velvety, flat finish. Paired with hairstylist Luigi Murenu’s complex updos that were one part twist and one part faux fade—sides were slicked down to create a masculine, almost pompadourlike top section that transitioned into a knotted ponytail in the back—the entire package was both otherworldly and dually chic. “It’s ghostly but still glamorous,” Pieroni offered.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

Backstage Reviews