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April 20 2014

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Nineties Brows—Without The Awkward Regrowth Phase—Backstage At Roksanda Ilincic

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Roksanda Ilincic’s Spring collection may have had a slight fifties influence to it, but she had her beauty team focus on an entirely different decade. “We went with a nineties, grungy look,” hairstylist Marc Trinder said, focusing on “hung-over Kurt Cobain hair” that he air-dried with his fingers, coating strands with “a lot” of Charles Worthington Frontrow Serum for piecey-ness. Makeup artist Lucia Pica drew inspiration from that other grunge icon: Kate Moss. “The girls are supposed to look more magazine grunge than street grunge—more Steven Meisel than Corrine Day,” Pica elaborated, creating a slightly warm base with St. Tropez Naturals Radiance Self-Tan for Face topped off with a soft yellow, peachy flush courtesy of MAC Blush in Dusty Coral and a muted yellow Chromacake. Then things got really interesting. To capture those quintessential nineties brows, “the skinny round ones we all used to have when we were younger, that we’re lucky grew back,” Pica broke out some clever makeup trickery. Rather than maniacally pluck out individual hairs until nothing but a thin arch remained (commence high school flashbacks now), she brushed a bit of MAC Lip Erase through roots to take them down a bit before drawing in a half moon shape with MAC Brow Pencil and blending it for a diffused finish. The effect isn’t quite as severe as the original, but it also isn’t as permanent; if only we knew then what we know now.

Photo: GoRunway.com

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