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July 28 2014

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Out Of Africa And Into The Eighties, Backstage At Donna Karan

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Since the nail art craze commenced two seasons ago, the old-school mandate of matching lips and tips pretty much went out the window (while a leopard-print pout is not unattainable, it is inadvisable). But there seems to be a backlash against all that for Spring, as corresponding lacquers and lipsticks are making a bit of a splash. “It’s quite eighties,” Charlotte Tilbury said of the practice backstage at Donna Karan, as she painted a dark burgundy-almost-chocolate pigment onto models’ mouths using MAC Pro Longwear Lip Pencil in Bittersweet—a near perfect match to Deborah Lippmann’s rich sanguine Just Walk Away Renee polish. It was a “sexy, strong” homage to Yasmin Le Bon, Tilbury said while pressing lips with a translucent powder to remove any semblance of shine (“I’m into matte now,” the flame-haired face painter declared of her lip finish of choice). For a nice dose of juxtaposition, cheekbones and lids were given a glossy sheen and Tilbury drew on a “splattering of freckles” across the nose bridge using MAC Lip Pencil in Hodgepodge.

The fierce makeup look worked with Karan’s collection, which featured tribal prints and body-con shapes; ditto Eugene Souleiman’s “sharp, sleek” ponytails, which were heavy on Wella’s silicone-based Shimmer Delight Shine Spray. “I know [Donna] and I know what she wants,” the Wella global creative director said as he sheared off the ends of long extensions with an electric razor for a straight edge. This season, that was a hint of Africa and Souleiman delivered with a braided leather cuff that he cleverly affixed with strips of Velcro and closed around the base of his updos.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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