August 21 2014

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“Pastel Tans” And Layered Lips, Backstage At Erdem


Astute audience members at Erdem Moralioglu‘s show of cool blue floral prints may have noticed a subtle detail as Anais Pouliot and co. walked the box-shaped runway with shoulders, décolletage, and necks bared: Their skin also curiously glowed with the icy tint. “It’s a pastel tan,” St. Tropez’ Nichola Joss said, coining the term for a new skin finish she’s been introducing here at the London collections. Models are sprayed with St. Tropez’ Wash-Off tanner in mobile booths for a faint sun-kissed effect but mostly for “polish and dimension,” which creates a base for a handful of the brand’s new Illuminators. “I’m using a silver and a blue,” Joss said, buffing and layering the two hues into limbs with a specialized mitt for a uniform finish.

Coiffing legend Charles Worthington placed his own label on the beauty look. “It’s South of France chic,” he said, interpreting the designer’s In the Mood for Love inspiration with an “architectural and glamorous” ponytail. Spritzing hair with Charles Worthington Front Row Volumizing Spray at the root, Worthington’s lead stylist, Marc Trinder, slathered lengths with its Heat Protector Spray before gathering them into a high ponytail, securing with an elastic and “tonging” the style (wrapping it around a curling iron, for those of you who don’t speak session stylist) to give it a little “bounce and swish” as the girls walked. The top was left deliberately soft and fluffy, an homage to an old picture of Chloë Sevigny that Moralioglu had shared with Worthington.

As for those red lips, makeup artist Andrew Gallimore applied MAC’s forthcoming Lipstick in Scarlet Ibis and matted it down with its Prep + Prime Translucent powder before patting on a layer of MAC Pigment in Red to provide a “velvet, rose petal” effect. Brows were brushed up with MAC Brow Set in Mink for fullness while lashes were coated in mascara for a fluttery finish. To complement Joss’ dose of luminosity, Gallimore added his own bit of shine in the form of Lucas’ Papaw ointment, which he dabbed onto lips and on top of cheekbones.


Backstage Reviews