The Duchess, Deconstructed Backstage at L’Wren Scott
“It’s a forties-era woman who’s traveled to the French Riviera and has been kissed by the sun,” Lancôme artistic director of makeup Aaron De Mey said of the L’Wren Scott face for Spring. “She’s pretty but she’s not too cosmetic or perfect—she’s a rock ‘n’ roll duchess,” he added. De Mey achieved this ideal by dipping heavily into tawny, earthen tones—mixing shades of Lancôme Teint Miracle Foundation two shades darker than the models’ own skin tones with face moisturizer and sweeping its Star Bronzer in Solaire across the high points of the face to catch the light. On eyes, De Mey drew Lancôme Le Crayon Khol in Black Coffee into the roots of lashes and directly onto the crease, blending it up toward the brows for an I’ve-been-out-all-night smudged effect. He cut the intensity of the liner with dazzling shadows from Lancôme’s 5 Pan Palette in Golden Frenzy, placing metallic pigment into the inner corners and smudging clear gloss (Lancôme Juicy Tubes in Pure) over the lids for a luminous, “deconstructed” effect. A coat of Color Design lipstick in Bronze Show on medium skin and L’Absolu Nu in Satin Toffee on darker complexions provided a rich, chocolate-rosy lip.
Coiffing star Serge Normant played to the deconstructed theme, too, spinning strands into a French twist that looked like it had been hit with a strong gust of wind. “This woman is just getting off the boat,” Normant said (read: yacht). “Her hair is disheveled but it still has an air of sophistication.” He struck that balance by pinning the back portion of hair into the twist but leaving the front out to create finger waves around the face that he misted with his Serge Normant Meta Revive Dry Shampoo, teased, and then brushed for a gauzy texture. “I want to look at the models and still feel the wind blowing through the hair,” he said.