August 23 2014

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Tom Pecheux’s Orange Crush, Backstage at Marni


The retro cat-eye has become something of a staple at the Spring shows. Lucia Pieroni went long and thick backstage at Jonathan Saunders, James Kaliardos kept it thin and pointy at Ruffian, and Pat McGrath went with proper fifties proportion, à la Sophia Loren, at Dolce & Gabbana (more on that in a bit). But leave it to Tom Pecheux to give the trend a twist backstage at Marni with a ruddy orange, winged flick. Smoothing MAC MatchMaster foundation over models’ well-hydrated complexions (Pecheux is a big believer in pre-makeup facial massages and frequently administers them himself with a nourishing cream or essential oils), the famed face painter turned his attention to crafting a strong brow, as he’s been wont to do this season (please see Altuzarra, Joseph, for further evidence). Then came the focal point of the face—a custom-mixed application of MAC Pro Studio Finish Skin Correctors in Terracotta and Caramel, which Pecheux blended together and applied along the upper lash line with an uptick at the outer corners, adding an etching of MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating, a powdery white pigment, along the lower lash line for a brightening effect. The off-kilter burnt mandarin color worked in perfect complement with coiffing star Paul Hanlon’s “destroyed” French twists, which added to the quirkiness that’s quintessential to a Consuelo Castiglioni collection.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

Backstage Reviews