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Twists And A Tonal Palette, Backstage At DVF

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A few pops of color in the form of statement lips at shows like Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu, and Donna Karan (more on that in a bit) notwithstanding, we’ve been noticing a more muted makeup trend for Spring: the tonal palette. The process requires the precise placement of complementary and contrasting neutral shades with both cool and warm undertones. “It’s a bit like paint-by-numbers,” makeup artist James Kaliardos said at Diane von Furstenberg where he had smudged about ten different shades of MAC’s versatile Cream Colour Base onto a clear, plastic plate-cum-mixing tray to custom-blend pigments for each model’s skin tone. Inspired by “modern Africa” (a favorite of von Furstenberg’s diverse muses), Kaliardos sculpted cheeks and lids with color slightly darker than each girl’s complexion and added dimension to eyes by building in a lighter center and inner corner area. Lashes were curled and swiped with mascara while brows were strengthened using MAC Eyeshadow in Omega.

Hairstylist Orlando Pita sculpted sixties silhouettes with a French twist, following the shape of the head. “It ended up looking like Kim Novak,” Pita said, drying strands with T3 Plump Heat-Seeking Liquid Hair Plumper and adding a hefty amount of its Control Hairspray for an “earthy, rustic, and fresh” matte texture. To put his own stamp on the classic look, Pita started the style at the top of the head and rolled it down, pinning as he went. “Usually twists go up,” he pointed out.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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