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Backstage At Haider Ackermann, “Possessed,” “Disturbed,” And Utterly Gorgeous

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If you were even remotely into last season’s move toward masculine beauty—sculpted skin, quiffs, et al—then the hair and makeup look at Haider Ackermann this morning definitely struck a chord. “It’s very intense,” makeup artist Stephane Marais said of the greasy brown “present” eyes and contrasting facial contours he designed for the occasion. Referencing poetry—”but disturbed poets, and mostly men, like Lord Byron”—Marais lined lids with MAC Eye Pencil in Coffee just along the water line to thicken lashes before layering chocolate and lavender shades of MAC Eye Shadow in Mulch, Concrete, and Shale through the crease, topping them with MAC Pro Mixing Medium Shine so the pigments appeared wet and glistening. Forgoing mascara, Marais blended a similarly toasted shade of MAC Cream Colour Base underneath cheekbones for definition before finally settling on the precisely right descriptor for the end result. “Possessed. That’s the word.”

While we happen to love a slick, smoldering, demonic eye, it was the hair that won us over. Prepping strands with Wella Create Character Spray Texturizer, Eugene Souleiman assigned himself the task of fashioning a faux fade—the second attempt we’ve seen at the gradually shaved on the side, long on the top style in two days—constructing a tight twisted chignon that wasn’t tucked in all the way at the top. Instead, mid-lengths and ends were left out, straight-ironed, and sprayed with Wella Stay Styled hair spray before being pinned down randomly to create spiky definition. It was an opportunity for the girls with typically long locks to live out that fantasy of going really short—which can be a particularly liberating experience, according to Catherine McNeil. “I did it in December and just got it trimmed,” McNeil said of recently making the cut with the chin-grazing crop she’s been sporting in Europe. “I’ve had the same hair forever,” she said. “It’s so much easier now.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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