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August 1 2014

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The Fifties Get Fetishized, Backstage At JPG

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As certain beauty trends continue to turn up for Spring—wet hair, bright lips, and monochrome makeup among them—there’s one seasonal muse that just won’t quit. “It’s fifties-inspired,” Guido Palau said, giving yet another nod to the mid-twentieth century backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier with “dressed” hair that was prepped with Redken 10 Guts Volume Spray Foam and divided into three sections. Center-parting two front panels, Palau rolled hair over foam cushions to create density before sweeping remaining hair into a high, tight chignon. “It’s very saucy,” he continued of the look—and it had to be, considering Gaultier’s shout-out to postwar fetishism.

“It’s also very Jean Paul,” makeup artist Stéphane Marais added, discussing the designer’s decision to have a few “real” girls among his models, inspiring the bevy of temporary tattoos and piercings that he sent down the runway. “They’re meant to be extensions of the fabric,” Marais said of about five different inked designs that were applied to arms, necks, and décolletage—”wherever there is skin, but not on the face. The face is for me.” Starting with a clean complexion, Marais built off his handiwork at Gaultier’s Couture show a few months ago. “It’s a little girl who wants to look made up and is obsessed with a really red, glossy lip.” Channeling Guy Bourdin images and a certain “Saint Laurent sophistication,” Marais applied a precise coat of the bright crimson pigment from MAC Pro’s dual-ended Longwear Lipcolor in Lasting Lust before swinging it around and dipping into its high-shine clear gloss. Filled-in brows and false lashes finished the look. (Pro tip: For increased ease of application, Marais recommends waiting at least 30 seconds after applying glue before adhering lash strips to lids.)

But wait—there’s more! Manicurist Isabelle Pain enhanced the retro S&M vibe by hand-piercing acrylic nails that had been painted with two coats of Debby Lacquer in ColorPlay #25, a bright red. She used a truly archaic-looking piercing gun to get small, silver ball rings onto two to three of each girl’s fingertips. A small safety warning: Do not attempt on natural nails unless you have at least a half-inch of length to work with.

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