“Ultra Women,” Backstage At Lanvin
Brown, rather than black, smoky eyes continue to get a lot of traction this week in Paris—one of the many beauty holdover trends we’ve spotted from Fall. “I’m feeling really pared-down makeup for Spring,” Pat McGrath confirmed of the increased appearance of “raw, nude-y” lids layered with creamy chestnut pigment backstage at Lanvin—which was exactly what Alber Elbaz wanted. “Ultra women” is how McGrath described the designer’s directive, crafting clean, dewy skin, topped with smudges of Elizabeth Arden 8-Hour Cream, which she also blended onto eyes for a “greasy, urban” effect. Brows were groomed—if there were any visible hairs left to groom. “If they’re bleached, I’m keeping them bleached,” said McGrath, explaining that the differentiation from one set of arches to the next actually worked with the collection. “A lot of the show is about variation,” she pointed out, adding that the decision to re-dye or not to re-dye brows is also fairly circumstantial. “Sometimes, you’ve gotta look around backstage and see what you can do—and what you can’t do,” she joked as what we’re pretty sure was actual steam wafted out of the overheated hair and makeup tent at the Jardin des Tuileries.
“Go in there if you need a facial,” hairstylist Guido Palau deadpanned of the temperature at his station, which forced him to move his operation en plein air. To counterbalance Elbaz’ “rich” creations, Palau went with strands that had a “nighttime, cool” feel. “The girls are lady enough as it is,” he elaborated, saturating sections in Redken Shine Flash 02 glistening mist for an almost wet look that achieved what he called “a tough idea about glamour.” Tucking front pieces behind ears to create a slight bend, Palau put his stamp of approval on at least one big hair trend for Spring. “Leaving it down just feels right to me this season.” And just like that, the year and a half we’ve spent growing out our asymmetrical bob paid off.