EXCLUSIVE: Peter Philips’ Blue Heaven, Backstage At Chanel-------
Before Karl Lagerfeld’s space shuttle Couture show took off yesterday in Paris, he gave Chanel’s creative director of makeup, Peter Philips, a brief with two specific directives: “blue, and make sure they don’t look like stewardesses.” Bearing Lagerfeld’s anti-Pan Am sentiment in mind, Philips kept his attention squarely on the eyes—something the famed face painter has made a habit of at recent shows (Philips acolytes will recall his homage to kohl liner at the house’s Raj-inspired pre-fall extravaganza last month). This time, though, it was shades of navy, rather than black, that informed his palette. “Instead of going for black khol, I created a few blue alternatives for this ‘flight,” Philips joked.
After building a flawless base by prepping skin with Chanel’s forthcoming Hydra Beauty Serum, due out in April, and its Perfection Lumiere Long Wear Flawless Fluid Makeup, Philips used Blue Aerien, a new intense blue Le Crayon Yeux Precision Eye Pencil, to contour lids. Then he applied two new shades of his creamy, blendable Illusion d’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Apparition, a grayish-blue that he swept through the crease and faded out toward the temple, and Destination, a silvery satin blue that he dotted along the brow bone and onto the inner corners of the eyes for a subtle dose of light. To keep the blue theme going, Philips lined the rims with Chanel Le Crayon Khol Intense Eye Pencil in Marine before slicking on a few strokes of its Inimitable Waterproof Mascara in Black. The layering effect had a slightly lived-in, rock ‘n’ roll feel to it, which was helped along by hairstylist Sam McKnight’s series of faux fades and mohawks—a nod to new Chanel ambassador and model-turned-thrash metal drummer Alice Dellal, no doubt. And because no Chanel show, Couture or otherwise, would be complete without a custom-designed nail lacquer, Phillips whipped up a pale, pearly blue shade called Sky Line for the occasion, which unsurprisingly was a perfect match with Lagerfeld’s collection. Made to order, indeed.