August 30 2014

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Ponytails And Penciled Lids, Backstage At Valentino Couture


Ever since Redken creative consultant Guido Palau championed the ponytail at the Fall 2011 shows, the easy, girl-next-door style has become perfectly acceptable runway—and red carpet—fare. But in an exciting first, the simple technique turned up backstage at Valentino yesterday, making an unlikely appearance at Couture week. Palau was after a “beautiful, innocent” vibe, which was decidedly conveyed through models’ blown-out middle parts and extra-low, satin ribbon-tied lengths. Hair was kept deliberately loose around the hairline, allowing for soft wisps to fall around the face, which lent an unfinished, mysterious air to Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s beautiful, eighteenth-century-inspired dresses. To add a slight edginess to the equation, makeup artist Pat McGrath built a flawless, clean base, to which she added a square, black liner application, similar to the technique she employed backstage at Lanvin two seasons ago. “They really wanted it to be just about that square and that perfected skin,” McGrath said of the designers’ directive. True to form, the face painter also put her stamp on brows, “lightening” rather than fully bleaching them, to create more of a contrast with the blocked-off, winged liner.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /; Gianni Pucci /

Backstage Reviews