The preshow rehearsal backstage at Dries Van Noten went a little longer than usual this afternoon, which meant we had a fair bit of time to kill before speaking with hairstylist Paul Hanlon and makeup artist Peter Philips. So we did what any fashion-obsessive would: We peeked at the models’ racks to get a preview of the show before it started. “There was a big exhibit of Asian clothing at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and Dries took pictures and printed those pieces onto other pieces,” Philips confirmed of the Japanese-inspired motifs we spied next to Tilda L.’s and Monika S.’s cards. “You get a print of a jacket on a jacket,” Philips explained, pointing out that he took a single color reference from these fabrics and reimagined it in the makeup.
“It’s about color-blocking,” he said, using three variations of an orange undercurrent from the collection on eyes, including two discontinued shades of Make Up For Ever Eye Shadow in no. 66, a mustard, and no. 78, a rusty mandarin, and Chanel’s Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eye Shadow in Tigerlily, a “fresh” tangerine according to Philips. Skin was kept pale to contrast with the bright lids, while lips were lined and filled with Chanel Crayon Lèvres Lip Liner in no. 35 Natural for a muted, matte finish.
As a Smiths’ best-of album played on the sound system, Hanlon was perfecting yet another iteration of Fall’s favorite updo, the ponytail. “Make sure the little bits in the front have spray on them to hold them down,” he directed his team, smoothing the front of a short side part across the forehead and over the ears before securing texturized lengths with a black elastic that would ultimately be removed. “There are no hairbands,” he said explaining that after a hefty portion of hairspray and a hit of heat from the blow-dryer, the fasteners would be cut out to leave behind a slight indentation. “It’s a little detail,” he said, calling the overall look “natural and easy—very real,” the better to balance out Van Noten’s opulent, detailed designs.
Ever wonder how Pat McGrath’s makeup team puts brows back on at a show after they’ve been bleached out of sight the night before? Or try to visualize the arsenal that the Dolce & Gabbana creative consultant brings with her when she sets up shop backstage? Yeah? We thought so. Click above and enjoy this exclusive video in which we chat up the famed face painter about her tips and tricks for getting at the heart of the kind of “baroque beauty” that wowed at Dolce’s Fall show—nude lids, pink lips, and face-framing arches—Sicilian-style—included.
When Tom Pecheux signed on as Estée Lauder’s creative director of makeup in the fall of 2009, he had a specific goal in mind: to inject a sense of ”fashion, fantasy, naughtiness, and above all youth” into the 66-year-old brand. Three years later, he managed to get all four objectives into one backstage beauty look, as the makeup artist and the storied New York cosmetics brand combined forces at Anthony Vaccarello, Lauder’s first ever appearance at Paris fashion week.
“The inspiration is Parisian women late at night,” Pecheux said—a recurring theme with the Frenchman who spent his younger days dancing until the wee hours of the morning in the City of Light at clubs like Le Palace. Pecheux is so well versed in the way of nude lips and sultry eyes, he has even designed a limited-edition color collection for Estée Lauder in homage to the “naughty-chic” aesthetic, as he likes to call it. Prepping skin with a blend of its Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher and DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15, Pecheux applied a veil of Estée Lauder Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10 to hold a “little bit of contour,” courtesy of its Bronze Goddess Soft Shimmer Bronzer. Lips were painted nude with its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle, which Pecheux matted down with translucent powder.
But what made these girls beautiful Parisian women—and not beautiful American or even Polish women, Pecheux explained as Anja Rubik sat in his chair—was a focus on the eyes, and the eyebrows. “You know how much I love them,” the face painter said of the full, face-framing arches, which he filled in and brushed up using Lauder’s Artist’s Brow Pencil Double Groomer. Lids were layered with a combination of its Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in Onyx, which Pecheux drew around the outer corner of the eyes and in strokes underneath the lower lash line, only to smudge them later with his finger, and a mix of shimmering black and berry shadows. ”I’m using a burgundy pencil just inside the eye,” he explained of the stroke of Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine that he topped with a dollop of its Pure Color Gloss in Opulent Opal to add a multi-dimensional glimmer that referenced the iridescent fabrics in the middle of Vaccarello’s collection. Hairstylist Anthony Turner’s sleek, gelled-down, “sexy soldier” ponytails bore a similar shine. ”C’est bon?” Pecheux asked Rubik as he slicked the glitter-flecked salve across her eyes. “Oui!” she replied.
After letting the cat out of the bag via Twitter that she would in fact be making a Fall 2012 cameo, Karlie Kloss turned up on the Anthony Vaccarello runway yesterday. She’s not the only big-deal model to return to the catwalk this season, either. There was that collective, does-it-get-any-better-than-this Gisele, Shalom, and Carmen sighting at Alexander Wang in New York, and on Monday, Naomi Campbell closed Roberto Cavalli’s presentation. Another one of our all-time favorite girls who is using this season as an excuse to get back into the game is Lily Donaldson. “I’m happy to be back—it’s nice to see my friends,” she told us of her recent turns at Fendi, Pucci, Dolce, and Cavalli (Donaldson was shooting during the London and New York shows, although she did make time for Anna Sui earlier this month). While marveling at the mere sight of Donaldson backstage, we noticed that her skin is truly something to behold—even after seven days of constant wear and tear. ”I always take my makeup off,” the Brit beauty insists, listing the first step of her fairly low-key regimen that also includes Simple facial wipes to help ensure that her fair complexion stays blemish-free. ”Then there’s this Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum that’s really good—and I love Avene.” Donaldson joined Kloss at Anthony Vaccarello, her first stop in Paris, and she couldn’t be more excited to be here—if not for the excellent shows, then for the homegrown beauty bounty. “The French pharmacy is my heaven. I don’t really spend money except [there],” she divulges. ”All of my friends think I’m crazy!” When she’s in town, Donaldson stocks up on Avene’s Day Cream as well as its Cold Cream for winter. “I use [Bioderma's] Crealine, too, but everybody uses that. I also just found the most amazing lip balm. It’s on a stick and it smells kind of like almonds. It’s the best thing ever. It looks like it’s medicated but it’s not! I can’t remember the brand name but it’s short and stubby and I need to buy some more.” As soon as we wrestle the brand name away from her, we’ll be getting in on that purchasing tip, too.
Astier de Villatte’s gorgeous ceramics and artful stationery have made it a must-see tourist destination in Paris and a favorite haunt for locals, too. But the adorable store received a big boost in business when Emilie Mazeaud came on board and introduced ADV’s cult-hit collection of scented candles and colognes four years ago. “We used to sell scented candles from another brand in our shop in Paris, and one day we decide to make our own,” the L’Ecole Camono and Central Saint Martins-trained product designer recalls of the catalyst that led her to enlist the services of renowned perfumer Françoise Caron, whom she met through her mother, Sophie Mazeaud, the former beauty editor at French Vogue. The collection of “scented objects,” as Mazeaud likes to call them, also includes covetable aromatic erasers in addition to a choice selection of incense, hand cream, and soap, all of which are meant to capture an olfactory journey to “the most magical places in the world.” Needless to say, the girl’s got good taste. Here, as PFW officially gets under way, Mazeaud dishes on her statement scents, where to go for trustworthy trims while in town, and a French pharmacy address you’re going to want to write down.
The Best Way to Burn One Down: Astier de Villatte
“My favorite candles at this time (because it changes) are Alger, which is like wild jasmine flowers having been exposed and heated under the sun, and Namche Bazar, which is a village located in the Sagarmatha Zone of northeastern Nepal. At 3,440 meters, it is the gateway to the high Himalayas. I love the name and the black tea with a touch of tobacco. It makes me dream of beautiful mountains.”
173 Rue St. Honoré, Paris, 33-1-42-60-74-13; also available for $75 each at www.barneys.com.
The House of Hair: L’Atelier de Donato
“[Donato] is a friend now. I am always happy when he cuts my hair, so I always go back there.”
207 Rue St. Honoré, Paris, 33-1-40-20-45-18.
The Lip Saver: Chanel Paris
“I like the color, the texture, and the packaging of Chanel [makeup], especially the Lèvres Scintillantes gloss.”
Les Mains Event: Aesop Aromatique Hand Balm
“All the skincare from Sisley is very good quality, and I love the hand cream from Aesop. It has a beautiful texture, delicious smell, and beautiful packaging.”