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August 20 2014

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Behind The Makeup: 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2012

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Behind the makeup is a new video series in which Style.com takes you beyond backstage for an insider’s look at the unique creative relationship between designer, makeup artist and hairstylist at the idea conception phase. As you may have suspected, the glossy chignons and bold red lips that debut at the shows often see a series of incarnations before they hit the runway.

There’s detail oriented, and then there’s Phillip Lim. “I’m really hands-on,” Lim admitted last weekend when he summoned longtime collaborators, Nars brand ambassador Francelle Daly and hair stylist Odile Gilbert to his studio to talk beauty for his Fall collection. The meeting of the minds was truly something to behold: Lim took Daly and Gilbert through his designs piece by piece, shared his “neo-noir” inspiration with them presenting a Roy Lichtenstein photo as a starting off point for the makeup, and then sent them on their way to “search for magic,” as Gilbert eloquently put it. And the magic came…slowly. At fist, there was too much red in the “superhero” eyes Daly drew onto lids using NARS Lip Liner in Jungle Red and its Eyeliner Stylo in Nuits Blanches, which she dotted with a “special effect” in the form of its Triple X Gloss for an illustration-caliber shine. And the hair? Well, the hair vacillated between too soft and too sleek, until Lim actually took out a pen and a marker and drew the shape he was after. “I don’t speak the language [of beauty] so sometimes the only way to get there is to paint a picture,” he explained. When everything was said and done, Daly had used almost an entire tube of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, which she had slicked onto custom-cut fake lashes, and Gilbert won Lim over with a texturized updo that she prepped with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and then fashioned into a curled under faux bob on one side with a long, straight section hanging down in the back—for the short term at least. When we arrived backstage at Lim’s show yesterday, he asked her to change the look one last time. “I had to do all 42 girls, in 45 minutes,” Gilbert exclaimed after the presentation. Magic, indeed. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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