August 23 2014

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Better Off Red, Backstage At Donna Karan


Hats on the runway present an interesting dilemma for hairdressers: how do you do something that’s simple enough to sit well underneath a headpiece, but still complex so that it makes an impact on its own? At Donna Karan, Eugene Souleiman solved that problem with “a detail that was quite graphic and quite ornate:” behold, the side twist. “It’s masculine and refined,” the Wella professionals global creative director said of the roll, which he prepped with a mixture of Wella Perfect Setting Blow Dry Lotion and its Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray for a soft, matte finish.

Referencing Karan’s “tailored, handsome collection,” Charlotte Tilbury wanted to incorporate the designer’s palette of black, gray and red into the makeup but in an unexpected way. “We didn’t want to go too retro with a red lip so we thought, ‘how do you give it and eccentric, modern twist?” The answer? A red eye. Keeping skin dewy by applying MAC Cream Color Base in Pearl on cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose and along the cupid’s bow of the mouth, Tilbury carved out a slight contour with its Pure Sculpting Cream in Pure Sculpture before beefing up brows with its Eye Shadows in Linger and Fling. Then came the “cherry, chocolate-y” lids, which the facepainter created using a mix of MAC Lipsticks in Partyline, a deep burgundy, and Diva, a purplish crimson. “It’s all about the eyes this season,” Tilbury declared.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

Backstage Reviews