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July 23 2014

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Birds Of Paradise Flock Together, Backstage At Prabal Gurung

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“The casting’s really considered, so I thought the hair should be, too,” hairstylist Paul Hanlon said backstage at Prabal Gurung yesterday, where the designer’s “uncursed”-themed show, which explored the ideas of heaven and hell through periods of black, then blue, then gold and white, necessitated a similarly linear coif. “The girls at the beginning have dark, dark hair but towards the end of the show, it’s almost white blond,” Hanlon explained, prepping strands with Tigi Catwalk Curl Collection Curlesque Strong Mousse, blowing them dry, then adding a hit of its Your Highness Weightless Shine Spray, section by section, for a high-gloss finish. “It’s like Sissy Spacek—flat, narrow hair that’s very pure,” he added, fashioning middle parts that kept the hair deliberately graphic so that it didn’t conflict with the embellishments in Gurung’s clothes.

While Hanlon took the designer’s other influence, the Japanese blue rose, as a green light to mimic Asian hair—”it’s very straight; there’s no movement”—makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury chose a much more literal translation of the prized bloom, playing with turquoise, teal, and cobalt shadows and liners for what she deemed a “hypnotic” eye. “There’s always a story here,” Tilbury said, referencing last season’s “intoxicating” tri-colored lips before throwing out Fall’s makeup references, which included Avatar and scarab beetles. Prepping skin with MAC Face and Body Foundation for an “innocent, fresh” finish, Tilbury used blue and green shades from its forthcoming eye shadow palette in Delft, as well as its Pigment in Blue Brown and its Eyeshadow in Fresh Water, to create a wash of iridescent color. MAC Technakohl Liner in Smoothblue was used to rim both the upper and lower lashline. “There’s a dual tonality,” Tilbury said of the corresponsing flashes of aquamarine and teal, which she described as “precise but very raw” (while examining her team’s handiwork, the flame-haired face painter would proclaim, “more like the feather of a bird of paradise” if she felt the pigment had been applied too angularly). “I don’t want to see a mess—it’s still beauty,” she chirped.

The same blue was echoed in the nails in the form of Blue Rose, one of four new polishes in Prabal Gurung’s continuing collaboration with Sally Hansen. Manicurist Jin Soon coordinated the steely shade with Onyx, a black she gave to the show’s first group of models, and Gilded Lily, a dense gold she applied to its final group, who wore the celestial gowns at the end of Gurung’s show. Ivory Skull, the fourth varnish in the collection, will also be available when the range hits stores in October.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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