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April 24 2014

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Braids And Black Lip Balm, Backstage At Pucci

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Referencing old Helmut Newton photos, Luigi Murenu honed in on a “slightly Germanic but more modern” feeling backstage at Pucci, where he devised what will likely be one of the most readily copied hair looks of the season. “It’s less coiffed and more tousled,” the super-stylist emphasized of the long, slightly wavy locks that he coated with Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse and middle-parted before pinning a series of color-matched braided extensions a few inches back from models’ hairlines to resemble a coronet. “It can’t be perfect; then it will look too retro,” Murenu continued, jostling flyaways loose around the face and ensuring that the hair that hung down in the back was languid and slightly texturized.

Lisa Butler was also trying to avoid the dreaded R-word. Taking her cues from Peter Dundas’ collection, which she described as “quite structured,” the makeup artist decided to do “something different” in the form of a smoky lip and a nude eye. “Finally!” she exclaimed, reversing the makeup look at a show that frequently relies on sultry lids and bare mouths. Drawing on a “fat” brow, Butler applied very little base, which she topped with “pink-y, outside-y, baby cheeks,” alternating between MAC Cream Color Base in Coral and its Blushcreme in Brit Wit, depending on each model’s skin tone. “We’re trying to approach each girl differently,” Butler said, using mascara here and black liner pushed into lashes there. The one unifying factor was a custom-blended black lip balm that she created by mixing a hint of MAC Lipmix in Black with its Lip Conditioner. “It’s like these eighties Shiseido lipsticks that were very weak in pigment but gave a little bit of darkness,” she explained of the effect, which read as a barely perceptible soft, black-currant wash on on the runway. “Don’t start wearing black lipstick, though; it’s very unflattering,” Butler warned of taking the idea and running with it—in the wrong direction. Her washed-out incarnation, however, is certainly worth a whirl.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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