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August 29 2014

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Cat-Eyes, 2.0

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The classic sixties cat-eye had a major second coming for Spring after it turned up on runways on both sides of the Atlantic. From Ruffian and Jonathan Saunders to Dolce & Gabbana and Kanye West, perfect black flicks in varying lengths and widths were the makeup accessory last season. As Charlotte Tilbury pointed out backstage at Donna Karan’s Fall show, “it’s all about eyes” again this season. But while winged liner shapes enjoyed a colorful update in New York, appearing in shades of red at 3.1 Phillip Lim, chartreuse at VPL, burnt orange at Narciso Rodriguez, and blue at Anna Sui, they’ve gone graphic in London. Andrew Gallimore debuted “floating” flicks backstage at Erdem, while diffused edges that squared off the outer corner of eyes was the look of choice at Aquascutum. Yesterday, makeup artist Val Garland started her obsidian line at the nose bridge, etching an abstract stroke towards the socket that stops before coming to a geometric point at Mary Katrantzou. The clever thing about all three techniques is that when the models’ eyes were open, the black pigment passed for a relatively normal uptick—making the visual trickery that much more impressive to the informed observer. Consider yourself in the know.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway

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