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April 16 2014

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Down Under Stunners, Backstage At Rodarte

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Before setting up his station with bottles of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation and a multitude of its bronzer and blush compacts backstage at Rodarte, James Kaliardos broke out the skincare. “Everyone’s skin is just disastrous right now,” the face painter proclaimed, soaking cotton pads with NARS’ new Makeup Cleansing Water and then slathering on “pretty much everything” from the brand’s skincare line to remedy models’ dry complexions—the unhappy result of four full days of shows. Once Kaliardos did start in with the makeup, though, there was no stopping him.

“These girls are in the Australian Outback and they’ve been caught in a dust storm,” he said, explaining Laura and Kate Mulleavy’s inspiration for their Fall collection, which manifested itself as a blend of bronze and pink pigments that Kaliardos applied with a heavy hand onto cheeks and lids. “I didn’t want it to be all bronzer and J. Lo,” he insisted; instead, the makeup artist opted for “Faye Dunaway cheeks,” which he sculpted by brushing on layer after layer of NARS Bronzer in Laguna. The shimmering insta-tan also made an appearance on lids, where it was brushed through the brows in the shape of an “arc.” Next Kaliardos dusted NARS Blush in Gaiety, a pure pink, from the crease toward the outer corners of eyes and then dotted its Blush in Madly onto the apples of cheeks, “geisha-style.” To open the eyes a bit, he pressed the white shade from NARS’ Eyeshadow Duo in Vent Glace into the inner corners. Lips were painted an opaque pink with its Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Bolero. If the makeup looked heavy, that was intentional. “More!” Kaliardos instructed his team. “Stronger!”

Hairstylist Odile Gilbert worked off a similar directive, re-creating a down under dust storm effect by varying the texture in her side-parted faux bobs. Prepping hair with Kérastase Mousse Volumactive, Gilbert created a shorter, curly side of the style, which she adorned with a series of gold pins, some of which had stars on them, and a longer, smoother side that went sans accessories. So how did Gilbert determine which girls got gold stars? “They decided,” she said of the designers. “They decide everything. They know what they want.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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