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July 29 2014

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Eyeliner Is Twice As Nice Backstage At Altuzarra

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If the editor response at Joseph Altuzarra’s Fall show was any indication, real women are going to be pretty excited to wear his clothes next season—and that was exactly what hairstylist Paul Hanlon was banking on. “It’s like what an everyday girl on the street would wear,” he said backstage of the corresponding hair look he designed for the occasion. Making sure that models’ strands had none of the volume indicative of a more fussy ‘do, Hanlon set about creating “skinny hair,” prepping with Frederic Fekkai Coiff Anti-Frizz Silkening Cream, which he applied from the roots through the tips to really weigh hair down so it had an “old feel.” If models’ natural texture was too thick, Hanlon went so far as to pin down a braid that he hid underneath a top section to thin things out. Spritzing Fekkai’s Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray through the lengths for a slight texture, Hanlon completed the look with a bit of Coiff Nonchalant Piecing and Forming Wax that he rubbed into ends for pieceyness.

The Altuzarra girl got her requisite dose of “punk, grunge couture,” courtesy of Tom Pecheux, who set about crafting “minimal but powerful” makeup. Eschewing foundation, the face painter opted to use a lot of moisturizer instead, massaging a series of emollient lotions into individual complexions. In another rare move, Pecheux also skipped the heavy brow that made a splash here for Spring. “We didn’t want the girls to look like soldiers,” he said. Instead, the makeup artist focused his attention on a double-lined eye. Using MAC Chromaline in Black Black, Pecheux traced the upper lashes with an elongated stroke that extended toward the temple in a straight line—”there’s no wing, so it’s not retro,” he emphasized—before adding a corresponding line on top that started at the inner corner of the eye, at the nose bridge. As a finishing touch, Pecheux smudged an iridescent brownish green-blue pigment on the inner corners of models’ eyes to add a hint of shadow and shine for the runway.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / Go Runway.com

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