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July 23 2014

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Horsing Around, Backstage At Jonathan Saunders

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Just hours before he showed his Fall collection yesterday, Jonathan Saunders called his coiffing collaborator, Paul Hanlon, and asked him to change the hair for the show. “The look we’d created at the fitting was covering the clothes a little,” Hanlon later explained backstage. “So we had to rethink the whole thing, really simplify it and create a style free of references that wouldn’t distract from the clothes.” Suffice it to say, mission accomplished.

Continuing to spread the gospel of no-volume “skinny hair,” a mission he started in New York at shows like Altuzarra and Proenza Schouler, Hanlon opted for a sleek version of the house favorite ponytail. “We love a ponytail at Jonathan Saunders,” he said with a smile. “I’ve done quite a few [here].” But this one was a far cry from last season’s side-parted, sixties style, as it boasted much more strict severity. “Jonathan was inspired by the Japanese in part, their attention to detail,” Hanlon explained. “That sense of discipline and order is present in the [hair]—it’s as tight as the models could stand it,” he joked. Priming strands with Frédéric Fekkai Coiff Strong Hold Volume Mousse “for a bit of grip,” Hanlon worked in its Sheer Hold Hairspray section by section to get a next-level smooth, sleek finish before gathering lengths into a slick ponytail that he wrapped with black twine. “I was thinking of the way horses’ tails are bound for dressage,” he said of the accessory. “By binding the top of the ponytail, you can make it protrude an inch or so from the head, creating a stronger shape in the profile.”

Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni kept faces clean, verging on stark, with the sole focal point being a slash of matte red across the lips, courtesy of MAC Pro Chromagraphic Pencil in Basic Red. When it came to skin, she wanted to “keep it real,” combining a flawless yet light coverage of MAC Face and Body Foundation with a dusting of its Medium Deep Mineralize Powder over the higher planes of the face—”for warmth rather than contouring,” Pieroni explained. A solitary swipe of clear MAC Lipglass adorned eyelids to catch the light, while its Eyeshadows in Typographic and Copperplate gently defined the brows without masking their natural texture.

Photo: GoRunway.com

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