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April 18 2014

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“Perfection With Rawness,” Backstage At Peter Som

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“I remember when Peter was making clothes for teenagers,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux said backstage at Peter Som this morning, reminiscing about his long-standing relationship with the designer. “But every season, his woman is growing up,” Pecheux continued. Fall 2012 is no exception. To contrast the “grown up” feeling of Som’s clothes, as Pecheux described them, the facepainter kept complexions deliberately fresh with a matte finish to add sophistication. Prepping skin with MAC Mineralize Charge Water Moisture Gel, he worked its Matchmaster Foundation into the skin with his fingers so that the layer of MAC Prep and Prime Translucent Finishing Powder he applied on top would sit flawlessly. “[If you're using a powder], you need to drop your brush, drop your sponge when you apply the foundation,” Pecheux explained of the technique. To maintain a hint of youthfulness, he created a sculpted contour with MAC Mineralize Blush in Stratus, a beige pigment laced with the surprising addition of iridescent lavender. The only part of the face that had a dewy component were eyelids, which were given a slick of MAC Lipstick in Delectable Mattene, a warm peach, that was also applied to lips and matted down with translucent powder. As a finishing touch, Pecheux feathered lashes with a brown mascara and filled in brows to create the illusion of “women with confidence.”

For Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman, it was about a confidence that read very masculine. “We’re not making them look pretty like we usually do, we’re making them look handsome,” he said coating models’ hair with Wella Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray before carving out a deep side part that he left polished on top. “It has a very mid-90s feel to it—Helmut and Calvin when they were major,” Souleiman explained gathering the lengths and pulling them into a low-laying bun that he would ultimately undo to reveal a texturized bend. “It’s perfection with rawness,” he concluded.

Photo: Kristian Dowling/Getty Images; Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images

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