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August 1 2014

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Rock Chicks Revisited, Backstage at Versace

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After a few seasons of dewy skin with warm, highlighted contours, Donatella Versace and her longtime makeup collaborator, Pat McGrath, revisited a part of the house of Versace’s original DNA to create “a really kind of cool rock ‘n’ roll girl,” according to McGrath—requisite smoky eyes included. “It’s all levels of black,” the face painter emphasized, from the unattached strokes of obsidian CoverGirl LiquiLine Blast topped with its SmokyShadow Blast in Onyx Smoke that rimmed the upper and lower lash lines to its Eye Enhancers 1-Kit Shadow in Shimmering Onyx with a hint of gold sparkle that McGrath dusted across lids in a soft winged shape through the socket. “We just want the girls to look more cool,” she reiterated, re-bleaching brows and then adding cream, complexion-enhancing colors through individual hairs so they looked “toned,” rather than blocked out. The idea, McGrath continued, was to do a smoky eye of today—something modern and graphic that bore no resemblance to “reality TV black liner.”

Working off a similar “super-cool, super-modern” directive, Guido Palau dipped into his kit and produced a series of fake bangs. “The whole thing is a lot less blown-out than we’re used to seeing here,” he said, coating strands with Redken Wool Shake 08 Gel-Slush Texturizer and its new Powder Refresh 01 Aerosol Hair Powder/Dry Shampoo to add a lived-in, slick bend to the hair. Even the short, Rooney Mara-esque fringe was left texturized rather than perfectly straight, smoothed down by another of Palau’s Fall kit essentials: a series of gray and black No-Crease Bow Clips from Ricky’s NYC. “They don’t mark the hair,” he explained of the stylist tools that have traveled with him from New York to Milan.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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