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August 2 2014

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“Tragic Beauty,” Backstage At Giles

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The ponytail is having a strong showing for Fall. After backstage turns in New York at Anna Sui, Marc by Marc Jacobs, The Row, and Jason Wu, the simple style has been equally big in London, making appearances at Erdem and Jonathan Saunders. But the updo may have had its most fiery moment last night at Giles.

“[He's] capturing decaying decadence, something beautiful that has been destroyed by fire,” Paul Hanlon explained backstage of Deacon’s inspiration for Fall, which saw a series of the burnt fabrics from the runway revisited in the hair, courtesy of ribbons that had been cut from the same cloth—cream iterations for blondes and black for brunettes. “With couturelike dresses, the hair couldn’t be too theatrical, but the scorched ribbons connected this pure, innocent hair to each look,” Hanlon continued, coating strands with a combination of Toni & Guy’s Label M Leave-in Conditioner and its Sleek Blow Out Creme to weigh hair down while adding shine and separation. Tucking front sections behind the ears to impart a slight bend as they dried, Hanlon gathered lengths at the nape of the neck before securing with the custom-made accessories. “The trick to mess up the ponytail is to pull the band down and then push it back up,” Hanlon said, ensuring his signature undone doneness was in full effect. “It creates a bagginess.”

Lucia Pieroni found Giles’ muse on the set of Sleepy Hollow—”or maybe she has consumption?” the makeup artist joked. “She’s definitely looking worse for the wear. She’s smoked too many cigarettes and drunk too much booze—a tragic beauty.” Cue the requisite undereye bags, hollow-looking lids, and shiny skin, which Pieroni achieved with a healthy amount of MAC Strobe Cream and a blend of its multi-use cream pigments in Groundwork and Harvest, which were applied to eyes and lips to impart a “bruised” hue.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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