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September 1 2014

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Backstage At Kenzo, The Walk of Shame Never Looked So Good

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Despite the cold rain that set over Paris last night, there was something uplifting about being backstage at the Université Pierre et Marie Curie for the Kenzo show; it probably had something to do with the multicolored schoolrooms-turned-hair and makeup stations and the bird’s-eye view our fifth-floor perch allotted for watching 50 models rehearse a show that included a runway with four levels of escalators. ”This is fashion,” makeup artist Yadim said, commending Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s sense of showmanship.

As was evident in the collection, the Kenzo girl has grown up since last season—and she’s also scored herself a new man. ”Humberto told me that he wanted the girls to look like they had found a rich boyfriend and now they’re spending all of his money,” Yadim explained of the progression of lip colors he slicked onto a dewy base of MAC Face and Body Foundation. Pouts ranged from MAC Lipstick in Sin, a dark burgundy, to Dare You, a purple-y red; Brave Red; Russian Red; So Chaud, a burnt orange; and Girl About Town, a muted fuchsia that was mixed with Dare You. Contouring lids and cheekbones with a taupe blush and adding highlights to the face with MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl, Yadim painted on an additional detail in the form of a “couture wing” that he drew onto the top lashline with MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack and then “chopped off” at the end for a squared, rather than pointed, flick. As models prepared to step onto the down escalator, the face painter smeared a fingerful of gloss onto eyelids and pressed a hand-print of a particularly “wet” lotion onto exposed limbs to catch the glimmer of the venue’s fluorescent lights.

Hairstylist Anthony Turner applied a similar effect to a bounty of messy knots by patting TIGI Catwalk Session Series Wet Look Gel onto the tops of models’ heads just as they hit the runway. “It’s hair the day after, the night before,” Turner said of the updos that were meant to appear as though they had seen better days. ”It was once very well done,” he elaborated of the style, “but while she was walking back to her apartment on the Lower East Side in the morning, she got stuck in the rain,” he continued, making sure to emphasize that Upper East Side boyfriend not withstanding, the Kenzo girl is downtown through and through.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

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