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August 2 2014

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“Grunge Mixed With Chic,” Backstage At Jean Paul Gaultier

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The number of hair color sightings on the runway has finally abated this season, meaning that the few instances of artful streaks and contrasting mid-lengths we’ve spied backstage are that much more remarkable in their occurrence. Guido Palau proved that he could do ombré with a twist at Prada in Milan, and he put his stamp on purposeful roots at Jean Paul Gaultier.

“We’re doing a bit of freestyling,” the super-stylist joked of the “graffiti stripe” he was spray-painting onto either side of a middle part that had been built into long extensions. Blowing hair dry with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry Lotion, coating it with its Iron Silk 07 Ultra-Straightening Spray before flat-ironing and then adding a bit of Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist to the ends, Palau applied a heavy-handed spritz of Redken Forceful 23 Super-Strength Finishing Spray to create a base for his silver, black, pink, orange, and blue color panels. “This is quite androgynous because it’s so long, so you get a little Joe Dallesandro,” Palau explained, referencing the Warhol superstar along with seventies California hippie chicks who never cut their hair. “There’s always a sense of humor at this show.”

Stephane Marais picked up on the Warholian, seventies reference as well. “Jean Paul said to me, ‘Remember that time at Studio 54—the girls were so fucked up and they looked amazing?” Marais asked, setting the stage for “the grunge mixed with chic” makeup look he was after. This necessitated a “fucked up, beautiful” eye that he created by lining the inner rims with a black kohl pencil and then using a liquid liner to press on erratic strokes along the top lid and underneath the lower lash line, which he ultimately jostled with his finger. Then he applied a heavy grease paint to the roots of the lashes and asked models to blink, after which he used a thin painter’s brush to hand-destroy the line even more. “I’m fixing it,” he laughed.

It was a departure from the play on the “madame” archetype that we’ve seen here over the past few seasons, when classic glamour elements like red lips, perfected brows, beehives, and forties sets have been given punk details, like gray extensions, fake tattoos, and nail rings. It’s still the same vibe, though, Marais assured us. “It’s just a different madame.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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