Pots And Painted Pouts, Backstage At Rochas-------
The color references were endless at Rochas, where Marco Zanini replicated a rich palette of Scandinavian pottery prints throughout his Fall collection. But makeup artist Lucia Pieroni honed in on a single shade of deep aubergine, which inspired the “stamped-on lip” she painted onto models’ mouths in perfect complement to the deep steely blues, warm mustard yellows, and hints of plum that were woven into the clothes.
“I’m making them matte,” the Clé de Peau color creator said of the lips, pressing a tissue over a dusting of translucent powder that she had blotted on top of a slick of the brand’s forthcoming Extra Rich Lipstick in #R10, a dark mulberry, to remove all traces of shine. Skin was kept luminous and pale thanks to a veil of Clé de Peau’s Teint Naturel Foundation and its Luminizing Face Enhancer palette in #12 Gold, which Pieroni swept across the tops of cheekbones. Blending a “soft-focus” eye onto lids with a mixture of its new-for-fall Satin Eye Colors in #118, a shimmering sand, and #116, a glistening wine, Pieroni beefed up brows, as she is frequently wont to do.
“It’s all about the textiles,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman confirmed of the backstage beauty inspiration. And Souleiman added another nod to handcraftsmanship with a series of lacquered cinnamon stick barrettes that he bought in Paris specifically for the show. “We found them in the Marais for 50 cents! We bought every last one,” he effused of the street-market find that added a “wooden, organic” element to Zanini’s folk-ceramic influence. Sectioning out a front panel of hair, adding a bit of mousse, and brushing it backward for a semi-sleek effect, Souleiman rolled the lengths under themselves, pinning them down for a touch of volume at the nape of the neck. The remaining side sections were back-combed ever so slightly to maintain the shape of a faux bob before they were gathered together and secured with the barrettes. “She’s rich, but not in a vulgar way, in an artisanal way—like a character in a Bergman movie,” he proposed of Zanini’s muse for the season. “So the hair is soft but it’s definitely been done—by impeccably good hands.” And how.