Raf’s In At Dior: But Who Will He Put On Makeup Duty?
After over a year of waiting, The New York Times is reporting that a new creative director has been named at Christian Dior—and his name is Raf Simons. The ousted Jil Sander designer, whose Fall show, his last for the house, ranks as one of the season’s best (it got the number two spot on Style.com/Print‘s top ten collections list), seems unfazed by the responsibilities that taking over such a large brand will entail, emphasizing that his approach is collaborative. “I’m not an isolated person. The more I connect to people, the more I have the feeling that things work.” Which got us to thinking: Who will be the person Simons connects with in the makeup department when his team takes over the Musée Rodin in October?
Legendary maquillage force Pat McGrath has been behind the fantastical face painting at every Dior show—both ready-to-wear and couture—since the early Galliano years and has been responsible for the whimsical seasons (think cupid’s bow lips, redrawn brows, and fine-art-inspired eye makeup) as well as the more pared-down tributes to classic beauty, as we saw for Fall. But over the past two decades, Simons has been loyal to friend, countryman, and collaborator Peter Philips. The Belgian-born makeup artist has worked on Simons’ own label’s campaigns as well as those for Jil Sander, and has been behind the stellar beauty looks that have prevailed there for the past few seasons: The rose petal pink lip that will long be remembered from Simons’ swan song at Jil Sander was Philips’ doing, as was that jade green cat-eye circa Fall 2011.
Philips’ role as creative director of makeup for Chanel might make it difficult for him to participate in a Dior show, but jury’s out whether Simons can make it happen anyway. He’s already managed to snag what has been the most elusive job in the fashion industry; who knows what else he’s capable of.