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July 30 2014

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Lining Up For Resort

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After a Fall show season full of colorful cat-eyes (blue at Anna Sui, chartreuse at VPL, red at 3.1 Phillip Lim) and abstract interpretations of graphic black etchings (Tom Pecheux’s double line at Altuzarra and Andrew Gallimore’s “floating” triangles at Erdem immediately come to mind), eyeliner appears to be continuing its backstage domination well into Resort. To reflect the cruise season’s textures, bold prints, and pops of color, designers like Acne’s Jonny Johansson, Antonio Marras, and Roksanda Ilincic have been requesting inventively lined lids rather than more obvious bright lips, when it comes to statement-making face painting.

It all started at Acne, where Lisa Butler used Sunday Riley’s forthcoming Velvet Gel Pencil in Pitch Black to create thick geometric wings on the inner and outer corners of models’ lids. The technique, which she completed by filling in the shapes with Riley’s Eye Color in Little Black Dress, was something of an optical illusion: At first glance, girls appeared to be sporting a perfectly normal flick, but a subtle blink of the eye revealed a much more detailed design. Jeanine Lobell followed suit at Stella McCartney, adding “a little bit of an edge” to McCartney’s normally fresh-faced vision with a black line along the lower lash line only.

Then Isabella Sabbioni took things Technicolor at Antonio Marras this week, cashing in traditional black kohl for a flash of jade green pigment, which she thickly scrawled along both the upper and lower lash lines, dragging her brush outward and upward toward the temple. At Roksanda Ilincic, Lauren Parsons stayed the colored course, blending MAC Pigments in coral and fuchsia with its Mixing Medium gloss to create a blurred red half moon through models’ creases. “It’s a different effect from every angle,” Parsons noted of her handiwork that was meant to look as though “it wasn’t too thought about. Effortless beauty rules,” she says—a boon to amateur makeup artists looking to experiment with pro liner techniques in the comfort of their own homes.

Photo: Everett Collection/Rex USA.

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