From Dawn To Dusk, Backstage At Armani Privé
After a Fall and Resort show season that had makeup minds firmly focused due north of the nose, the eyes continue to have it for Couture. Blue-gray smoky varieties dominated at Chanel, and they turned up again yesterday at Armani Privé, where the brand’s creative director of makeup, Linda Cantello, eschewed more common, black varieties of the classic, sultry shadow technique and went with slate and pewter instead. As Peter Philips did for Karl Lagerfeld, Cantello delivered a completely updated shape to the standard style for Giorgio Armani, calling it “a wash” of color. Extending brows all the way toward the hairline in a single, dégradé stroke, Cantello concentrated her pigment on the inner corners of the eye, sweeping her brush only halfway through the crease, breaking, and then continuing the color toward the outer corner in a thicker, more transparent block that tapered out toward the temple. Models’ lips received a dusting of powder with a similar palette so they appeared pale, matte, and muted to go along with the designer’s theme, which took its inspiration from the light at dawn and dusk. The striking yet still minimal face-painting effort created a certain futuristic consistency that still managed to hark back to more classic eras—a point that was certainly helped along by Franco Gobbi’s sleek, 1930′s “ocean waves,” which boasted sculpted ridges along the hairline and a bun in the back to allow room for the army of black Philip Treacy headpieces that marched down the runway.