Mirror, Mirror: Chanel’s Peter Philips Reflects On His New Rouge Allure Lipstick Line
There’s more to Chanel creative director of makeup Peter Philips than a knack for great colors and a precise application technique. “I’ve done a lot of gluing on faces,” the Belgian-born face painter deadpans of a certain proclivity for 3-D beauty. His fashion education at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts often informs a palette that includes crystals, fabric, and beads in addition to more run-of-the-mill powders and pigments (see the handwoven eyelash embroidery from Chanel’s Fall 2009 show and Philips’ most recent effort backstage at the Grand Palais for Fall , where he created precious stone-encrusted eyebrows). “But whenever I do a thing like that, it’s for an image,” Philips says, pointing out that “a sparkle is more than just one frozen moment. It’s a chain of images, because it moves, like a firework. And that’s something that you can only see in film or in real life.”
Philips has finally captured this fluid motion in Miroir, Miroir. “I’m a huge fan of visual communication,” he admits of a recent string of highly designed, well-conceived short films that put his products on view in a wholly unique way. This time around, he was inspired by a specific mirror-embellished coat from Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris-Bombay pre-fall show—and the fact that there is “something Indian” about his newly formulated Rouge Allure lipstick line (due out in September). The range of 16 shades includes intense apricots, pure scarlets, and bold fuchsias, four of which are painted onto the mouth of model Inguna Butane in the video vignette. “She was very patient,” Philips says of Butane, who sat for three hours as he painstakingly glued pieces of reflective glass onto her face to create a mesmerizing quality as it slips through a digitized third eye on loop. “It’s a bit psychedelic,” Philips says. And how. Click to watch, above.