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July 31 2014

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“A Little Lana Del Rey, A Little Raquel Welch,” And Another Big Sixties Shout-Out Backstage At Moschino

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The beauty story at Moschino told itself: the teased-out bouffants, the white-rimmed lids, the loads of individual lashes—”It’s totally sixties,” Tom Pecheux confirmed backstage, shouting out the singular reference that has dominated the shows so far. “At least [Rossella Jardini] went there completely,” he joked of the designer’s full-on, swinging homage that put a “twisted, playful” spin on fashion’s reigning favorite decade.

There is something universal about the retro look, though, Pecheux insisted. “The strong brows are more forties,” he said as he filled in arches, “and the lashes are so huge they could be on [in 2012],” he continued of MAC Lashes in #35 and #33, which were painstakingly placed in between natural lashes and coated with its Haute & Naughty Mascara. The modernization of MAC’s Eye Kohl in Fascinating, a white pencil that Pecheux set with its Eyeshadow in Gesso and drew around the upper and lower lash lines, was a bit of a harder sell; ditto those “Typex” white nails and that quintessentially sixties coral mouth, which came courtesy of MAC Lipstick in Morange and a slick of its clear Lip Glass. But borrowing from the past does have its perks. “The sixties were about fun, and color and youth,” Pecheux pointed out, throwing in his two cents about why the style set is looking backward to move forward for Spring.

“[Stylist] Anna Dello Russo and Rossella [Jardini] were very specific about what they wanted,” hairstylist Sam McKnight chimed in, reciting the mix of muses he was given for inspiration. “It’s a little Lana Del Rey, a little Raquel Welch…a proper doll ‘do—very done,” he said of the voluminous, side-parted, half-up, half-down style that required a good amount of Pantene Pro-V Ultra Strong Mousse, its Ultra Strong Hairspray, and a lot of back-combing. After achieving his desired height, McKnight secured front sections in the back with bobby pins and smoothed lengths with his trusty Mason Pearson brush. “I didn’t know I had this much hair!” a surprised Cara Delevingne said as she settled into McKnight’s chair. “How do you get something like this out?” she asked. (After toiling over 33 girls and a tight deadline, McKnight let that one go with no response).

Photo: Rex Features via AP Images

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