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September 3 2014

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A Sixties/Nineties Mash-up, Backstage At Michael Kors

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There are two decades being mined at the New York shows this week, and Michael Kors managed to get both of them into one beauty look. “It’s sixties/nineties,” Orlando Pita said, referencing the super-sleek, deep side parts that he was giving models, creating an indentation in the back with a long elastic that was clipped behind the ears. The straightness, which he achieved with a blow-dryer and a few spritzes of his T3 Control Heat-Seeking Hair Spray, hammered home the homage. “The first time women straightened their hair was in the sixties, but they used actual irons,” Pita said in an impromptu session of hair history 101. “In the nineties, they finally created a straightening iron.” Karlie Kloss, Jac, and Frida Gustavsson got updos to accommodate the evening dresses they wore to close the show.

Dick Page was on a similar tip, although the Shiseido artistic director wasn’t quite ready to call his colored, banana liner applications retro. “[Kors] just wanted to do an eye thing. [This is] a floating line,” he declared of the single stroke of its Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Jungle, a punchy green, that he gave brunettes, and the Punky Blues palette that he saved for blondes, both of which changed shades underneath a series of plastic pastel sunglasses. A wash of white pigment along the upper lash line and a few swipes of Shiseido’s Perfect Mascara Full Definition in Black helped open the eyes while its Luminizing Satin Face Color in Highbeam White brought light to cheekbones, jawlines, and foreheads. Lips were painted and then blotted down to a barely perceptible nude with Shiseido’s Perfect Rouge in Vision, a dusty rose—not that it mattered; after Kloss passed her new Perfect 10 cookies around to Page, Lindsey Wixson, and Magdalena Frackowiak (and this reporter), there wasn’t much visible lipstick left to speak of.

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