Backstage At Prabal Gurung’s “Haunted” House
It was so hot and dark backstage at Prabal Gurung’s Spring show, which took place during New York’s early-September, rainforestlike conditions, that there was literally steam rising in the shadows as models assembled in first looks for rehearsal. Discomfort aside, it was the perfect backdrop for Charlotte Tilbury’s makeup look. “It’s a play on ethereal and haunted,” the flame-haired face painter explained as models like Kati Nescher and Joan Smalls blotted the sweat off of their brows, cheeks, and lips in between makeup brush strokes. That Tilbury had committed to an all-cream palette certainly helped matters. “Cream [formulas] makes it a lot easier,” she explained of the look that was heavy on melted-in contours.
After creating a base with MAC’s forthcoming Mineralize Moisture Fluid Liquid Foundation, Tilbury played with a palette of its new Sculpting Creams in Pure Sculpture and Coffee Walnut, working the emollient, earth-toned tints from the hallows of cheekbones up through the temples, along the jaw line, and through the sockets of eyes. Lids were given a touch of highlighter courtesy of a finger-dabbing of MAC Cream Color Base in Luna, a shimmering pearl, before its Prep + Prime Translucent Powder was dragged through the T-zone to further showcase the architecture of the face.
Paul Hanlon’s hair design was similarly amenable to the conditions. “It’s very nineties but also has a Sissy Spacek, seventies vibe as well,” the stylist said of his center-parted, deliberately flat, no-volume coifs. Massaging Schwarzkopf’s Osis Grip Extreme Hold Mousse into the roots and blowing it out for texture, Hanlon raked “loads” of its Osis Magic Finish Anti-Frizz Shine Serum through the mid-lengths to create separation so strands were “ropelike—skinny and languid.” As a finishing touch, he coated his hands with Osis’ Buff Light Styling Cream to smooth any flyways.
Tracylee’s nail designs were probably the closest thing to the contemporary art movement that compelled Gurung’s collection. “He was inspired by Amy Dicke and Anish Kapoor,” said the Sally Hansen nail ambassador, who was looking at a piece of Kapoor’s work when she devised Spring’s “blood-dripped nail.” Using one of the three latest shades from Gurung’s continued partnership with the brand, Tracylee slicked a trickle of Sally Hansen’s Angel Bite, a sanguine red, onto a sheer cream base. Apparition, a gunmetal gray, and Resurrection, a steely blue, will join the deep burgundy lacquer on shelves next year.