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August 31 2014

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Finger-painting And “Bad Hair,” Backstage At Peter Som

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Pastel-colored hair streaks have enjoyed a longer stay of execution on the runway then some members of the style set (this one included) are willing to believe. So when we arrived backstage at Peter Som this morning only to see that they would be making another appearance here for Spring, we definitely took pause. And Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman noticed. “It’s good clothes, bad hair,” he admitted, explaining that his goal was to counterbalance Som’s “very rich-looking” collection with something deliberately “distressed, vintage…and patchy.” So he collaborated with Wella color ambassador, Aura Friedman, to work mineral-hued dyes—tourmaline, amethyst, teal, denim, and dusty rose—into a series of long weaves. “I wanted it to feel very spontaneous,” Souleiman said, gluing the hairpieces into “unusual” parting patterns while prepping strands with Wella’s Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray to create a matte feel. “It’s meant to be visual, not technical,” he insisted, pointing out that application is key when it comes to keeping pops of color from looking less contrived, and more “tough and cool.”

Makeup artist Tom Pecheux also had juxtaposition on his mind. Describing Som’s clothes as “more grown up,” Pecheux was intent on keeping faces playful. “When you become an adult, you do everything for a reason; kids do everything for no reason. Like, [their] drawings are amazing,” he said, explaining the thought process behind the finger-painted, “innocent” pastels he used on models’ eyes. Dusting lids with MAC’s forthcoming Eyeshadow in Sunshine, a sunny yellow, Pecheux applied another wash of pigment through the crease in varying shades of orange, blue, green, pink, and mauve. As a finishing touch, he left a darker thumbprint right below brushed-up brows, using a more concentrated dose of one of five corresponding MAC Paintsticks. Mouths were kept nude with varying slicks of MAC Lipstick in Luxe Natural and Posh Tone. As far as who got what eye-shadow combination, Pecheux left that to models’ whims. “As soon as it becomes too studied, it loses the innocence.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

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Comments

  1. shahla says:

    Som’s “clothes”? Such new ideas, such late ’60s junk. And more no sales. What the buyers want usually isn’t what anyone else wants. Still stuck in the mini ’60s.

Backstage Reviews