“Grungy Girls” With Pink Pouts, Backstage At Giles
When designing a hair concept for any given show, Paul Hanlon’s points of reference tend to be varied. But more often than not, they coalesce at the intersection of “an eighties-nineties grungy girl who has stepped from one decade to the next.” And so it was backstage at Giles for Spring, where the coiffing star set to channel his now signature “skinny hair,” which was equal parts disheveled and undone.
Finger-combing Toni & Guy Label M Matte Paste through a low side part for a rough-dried effect, Hanlon mixed its Blow Out Spray with a bit of Sea Salt Spray for additional texture. On thinner hair, he worked its Smoothing Cream through the ends, tying lengths into a small bun, which he then removed to reveal a subtle wave. “This is a girl who will wear a beautiful ball gown but then totally forget to do her hair, so it looks cool,” he surmised of the designer’s woman.
Lucia Pieroni kept things duly casual, pointing out that her stamped-on, matte fuchsia mouths and luminescent skin were meant to resemble “makeup you can do at home.” Massaging skin with MAC Complete Comfort Cream, the face painter added highlights along cheekbones and eyelids with MAC Cream Colour Base in Luna and Hush, so those areas reflected “like lightning bolts” on the runway. Keeping London’s Spring lipstick revival alive, Pieroni slicked on a layer of MAC Lipstick in Embrace Me, a hot pink, which she dabbed over a layer of foundation and then powdered to remove all traces of shine. Nails were painted a similar color while brows were bleached or brushed up depending on the model (blondes got the peroxide treatment while brunettes remained true to their roots). That part is less likely to occur in the comfort of our own apartment; everything else, however, seems entirely doable.