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April 20 2014

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Taking A “Fumble In The Jungle,” Backstage At Kenzo

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Backstage at Kenzo, the evidence of Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s already impactful influence on the house they took over two seasons ago was visible everywhere. We’d say, and this is a conservative estimate, that 30 percent of the production crew, hair and makeup artists, publicists, and catwalkers assembled there were wearing one of the design duo’s gotta-have-it logo sweatshirts or sweaters from Fall, with or without tiger head. They had an equally exciting lineup hung on racks for Spring, which had a bright, fun beauty look to match. “They wanted the girls to really have a progression,” said makeup artist Yadim, who explained that the models were meant to seem as though they had walked into the jungle and then got consumed by it.

This necessitated not one but six different eye liner looks. “It’s slightly rave, modern and graphic,” Yadim continued of the thick etching of MAC Chromaline in taupe, black, forest green, yellow, orange, and bright green that he traced around models’ lids, drawing it to a point in the inner corner of the eye and leaving a small gap in the otherwise fluid shape in the center of lower lash lines “for a surprise.” Marian Newman painted nails with a corresponding four-polish palette of MAC Nail Lacquers in a bright mandarin, a glossy taupe, a deep nude, and a rich emerald, for an added touch of color, although the eyes were still the focus. To make them stand out even more, Yadim kept upper and lower lashes heavy and clumpy with MAC Haute & Naughty mascara while taking down lips, beefing up brows, and giving cheeks a slight contour with MAC Blush in Taupe. “I’m also using lots of highlighter,” he emphasized of the concentrated brushstrokes of its Cream Colour Base in Pearl that he swept across cheekbones, along the brow ridge, down the bridge of the nose, and onto the Cupid’s bow of mouths, pulling Sui He over to illustrate how her skin glowed with a luminescent dewiness (and it did).

“She’s had a bit of a fumble in the jungle,” Anthony Turner elaborated of the idea, dousing hair with TIGI Catwalk Session Series Salt Spray as a rousing rendition of “Happy Birthday” broke out for Magda Laguinge. Letting strands air-dry to create a piece-y texture, the hairstylist explained that the thesis here hasn’t changed; his objective is still to “bring New York to Paris” with a cool, young feel that has an air of effortlessness to it—and a little something extra. “I’m going to rough them up a bit before they hit the runway,” Turner promised.

Photo: Greg Kessler

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