The Four-Part “Cosmic Couture” Lip Debuts At Missoni-------
“They are all hating me right now,” Lucia Pieroni joked of the models backstage at Missoni, where she had doled out “dry mouths and sticky eyelids” for the house’s Spring show. That, of course, was an incredibly simplistic description of the makeup artistry that was afoot here, which was attributed to “cosmic couture Japanese manga girls” and just so happened to feature one of the best lips we’ve seen all season.
“It’s a strong, fluoro pink,” Pieroni said of the four-part mouth that included a blend of MAC Lipmix in Magenta, Orange, and White, which the face painter topped with its loose Pigment in Red Electric. “When you mix it, it kind of gets orange, like tequila sunrise,” she explained. The color amounted to a retina-burning melon, which popped against glowing skin that had been lightly contoured through cheeks with MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural face powder in Medium Deep and highlighted with a layering of its luminizing Cream Colour Base in Luna and Pearl. “I wanted there to be something cartoony about it,” Pieroni continued, grooming brows and emphasizing a matte finish on mouths that had been brushed rather than lined. “It starts in the middle and sort of bleeds out,” she stressed of pouts’ “felt tip” quality.
Working off a collection that was very much for “a modern-day girl,” according to Eugene Souleiman, the Wella global artistic director brought the past and the present into the fold with a dichotomous ‘do. “It’s modern-day hippie and slightly space age,” he said of center-parted strands that he “squashed” with Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray. “Normally, when you create a flat hairstyle, you use a gel,” Souleiman explained, pointing out that he was purposely using “the wrong product to get the right result.” The saline spray helped give the coiffeur the “sculptural” look he was that boasted a slight masculinity after he slicked down front sections to resemble long sideburns. “It’s very graphic,” he surmised of the hair—which, as far as he’s concerned, is a textile not unlike clothing. “It’s a fabric you can play with.”