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August 21 2014

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Young Frankenstein Gets Girly, Backstage At Christopher Kane

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There were the direct Frankenstein mentions in Christopher Kane’s Spring collection (see the screenprinted T-shirt in look 30), and then there were the slightly more subtle nods toward Mary Shelley’s nineteenth-century creation. “This could almost be Frankenstein’s daughter,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni explained of the harsh, black-rimmed eyes she set against an otherwise perfect complexion. “But a little more dainty.”

Prepping skin with a generous layer of NARS Optimal Brightening Concentrate, Pieroni spot-treated with its forthcoming Radiant Creamy Concealer. “There’s a subtle iridescence coming through,” she explained, clutching NARS’ Illuminators in Orgasm and Copacabana, which remained in Pieroni’s hand during her entire backstage tenure as she swiped the creamy, luminescent pigments onto models’ T-zones and high on their cheekbones. Following a dusting of NARS Light Reflecting Setting Powder that imparted a ghostly, almost spooky edge, the face painter made brows strong and straight with a once-over of its Eyeshadow Duo in Pandora. Then, on top of a sweep of NARS Eyeshadow in Pearl Beach, a shimmering sheer mauve, Pieroni etched its Eyeliner in Black Moon along the waterline, smudging it out onto the edges. “The prettiness is balanced by using black along the [lashes],” she explained, adding a touch of NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Veneto for opacity and drawing its Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Belle de Jour, a warm nude, onto mouths to ensure the focus remained firmly on eyes.

Applying a thick layer of TIGI Session Series Wet Look Gel across the top of the head and pulling hair straight back into a long ponytail, Anthony Turner declared a similar intention to avoid the pretty and embrace the tough. “The Christopher Kane girl’s hair is not gentle or feminine anymore; she’s fighting against the ladylike collection and she’s a bit of a rebel,” he said. Removing flyaways with TIGI Curlesque Defining Serum and flat-ironing the lengths for a sublimely straight finish, we’d say his mission was sufficiently accomplished.

Photo: Courtesy of NARS Cosmetics

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