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April 19 2014

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EXCLUSIVE: “A Soft, Fresh Look With A Subtle Edge,” Backstage At Chanel Métiers D’Art

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Temperatures reached a low of 30 degrees Fahrenheit last night at Scotland’s Linlithgow Palace, where the Chanel faithful had gathered to watch Karl Lagerfeld’s latest Métiers d’Art triumph. Brand ambassadors like Caroline Sieber and Poppy Delevingne braved the front row in towering fur hats to fight the chill at the castle’s open-air hall, which left the French house’s creative director of makeup, Peter Philips, in the precarious position of creating a look that could withstand the elements. “When applying makeup in rough weather conditions, it’s important to use a good moisturizer and a bit more coverage in your foundation,” he pointed out backstage, where he was busily sculpting “pure skin” with a “fresh, crisp glow” courtesy of Chanel’s Vitalumière Éclat Compact or Mat Lumière Long Lasting Soft Matte Makeup SPF 15, depending on the girl. “I need to use [something] that can stand in this cold,” he reiterated, adding a deliberate dose of its Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Rose Initial to create a wind-swept flush that, quite frankly, needed little coaxing by way of cosmetics.

But the evening’s beauty focus was on both the skin and the eyes, Philips emphasized. “It’s a soft, fresh look with a subtle edge,” he said, explaining that Lagerfeld wanted a little something extra on lids that would complement Sam McKnight’s elaborate range of braided and back-combed updos, equipped with pieces of Chanel Fine Jewelry, without the whole thing becoming “too costume.” Building a base of soft shading and highlighting with Chanel’s forthcoming Les 4 Ombres Quadra Eyeshadow in Raffinement, Philips added a “touch of edginess” with precise strokes of its Stylo Yeux Long Lasting Waterproof Eyeliner in Noir Intense under the lower lash line and at the upper corners, tracing the inner rims with its Le Crayon Khôl Intense Eyeliner in Clair as he went. “It’s between a dancer’s makeup and a punk look,” he surmised, skipping mascara and brushing on a thin coat of Chanel Glossimer in Plaisir, an innocent pink, on the lips to “keep a fragility.” The punk bit was repurposed on nails that were painted a shimmering shade of dark blue/violet with Chanel Le Vernis in Taboo, which will make its debut next year. If you can’t wait to slick on two coats while layering your best tartans and tweeds, you’re not alone.

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo

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