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August 23 2014

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Cut-And-Paste Liner Redux, Backstage At Atelier Versace

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“It’s just very much Donatella,” Pat McGrath said of the smoky eye backstage at Donatella Versace’s Spring show in Milan, where the makeup artist had set to sculpting the designer’s go-to “sexy, cool” look, just as she has for many a season past. Versace’s desires for her haute couture show this weekend weren’t much different, as sooty, black-rimmed lids reigned once again in Paris. Although seeing as how it was a special occasion—the house’s longtime muse Kristen McMenamy opened the show while fellow supe Stella Tennant closed it—McGrath added a hint of color to the predictable onyx abyss via flashes of lime green on the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Upon further inspection, we noticed something even more interesting about the offbeat pop of green: Those outer flicks are actually stencils. “We’ve been doing it for fifteen years,” McGrath told us of the tried-and-true technique backstage at Viktor & Rolf circa Spring 2012 (above, right). “It’s something we came up with as a way to get an eye liner on quickly,” she explained of the easy-on system. The hours spent cutting out those perfectly pointed strips, however, is slightly less of a speedy process, we imagine.

Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images; Luca Cannonieri/ Gorunway.com

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