EXCLUSIVE: Peter Philips on Chanel’s “Dark and Fragile” Couture Beauty Look
Peter Philips has been making a case for the statement eye a lot recently. The Chanel creative director of makeup added “a touch of edginess” to Karl Lagerfeld’s tartan-rich Métiers d’Art pre-fall collection in December, while a “kind of heavy-handed,” black-rimmed silver lid colored the designer’s Spring show. At the house’s couture presentation this afternoon, it was much of the same.
“We created the eye applications specially for this show,” Philips said of the pieces of leaf-shaped tulle that Maison Lemarié cut using the same strips of fragile fabric Lagerfeld employed in a series of delicate hair pieces. “The makeup is almost an extension of the head accessories,” Philips continued, pointing out that each feathered clip-in that Sam McKnight affixed to models’ messy updos covered one eye, revealing only half of the face, the entirety of which still needed to be primped to perfection.
Creating a flawless base with Chanel Vitalumière Aqua Ultra-Light Skin Perfecting Makeup SPF 15, Philips swept on a touch of its Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Frivole, an extremely flattering peach hue, before building a standard smoky eye around the appliqués with its Stylo Eyeshadow in Black Stream and Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner in Noir Intense. Natural eyelashes were treated to multiple swipes of Le Volume de Chanel Mascara in Noir to add further intensity. “In close up, you feel the fragility of the textures and materials, and from a distance, the look feels much darker,” Philips points out of the particular paradox he was striving for with the makeup—and the nails. Fingers were treated to two coats of Le Vernis Nail Colour in Emprise, a pale coral, while toes were varnished with its Black Satin for contrast. No detail was overlooked, as per usual.