“A Bit of a More Feminine Approach,” Backstage At Proenza Schouler
The Proenza Schouler woman has such a signature low-key beauty look that we often wonder if Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez even have to instruct hairstylist Paul Hanlon and makeup artist Diane Kendal what to do at this point. Following a few twists and turns at the preshow test for Fall, however, it turns out there was, in fact, a specific directive: “They asked me to do the hair I did for them two seasons ago,” Hanlon revealed backstage.
For those of you who need a refresher course, that was the season Hanlon coined the term “skinny hair,” for which he washed every girl’s locks on site, to start with the most natural texture possible, before removing excess volume and weighing strands down with product. “They’re architectural couture clothes for Fall, but there’s a reality to them, so we don’t want the hair to look too groomed,” he explained, coating strands with Frédéric Fekkai Coiff Perfecteur Anti-Frizz Silkening Crème to create a “lank” effect before applying its Defense Pre-Style Thermal/UV Protectant to add moisture. Then, fashioning side parts that he tucked behind models’ ears, Hanlon applied a liberal amount of its COIFF Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray to add a “roughness, like if the girls had been wearing a beanie.”
Kendal wasn’t so much told to re-create her work from past shows, but she’s become so adept at channeling the design duo’s downtown cool aesthetic that it’s almost second nature at this point. “This season is a riff on classicism, so it’s a bit of a more feminine approach for them,” Kendal pointed out, “but they still wanted their girls to be their girls.” Cue the perfected complexions with MAC’s Studio Fix Powder for a velvety base, the boyish brows that were brushed up with its Clear Brow Finisher Wax, and a fine stroke of black cream shadow drawn against the upper lash line in lieu of mascara. There was one new development here, in the form of MAC’s Red Statement Lipstick from its forthcoming Fall Trend palette, which Kendal applied to cheeks as a transparent blush. “But it’s very sheer, so you can’t really see it,” she assured us.